Newsletter
2020 vintage — spring release
Welcome to the first release of Turley’s 2020 vintage!
The winter sun—or is that a glimmer of hope?—shining on a centenarian vine in Deaver Ranch.
While dithering about preparing to compose this newsletter heralding the first release of the 2020 vintage wines, I turned to one of my preferred procrastination inspirational tools, the works of Paul Thomas Anderson. (If you’ve ever wanted to summon your inner mad creative genius while attempting a difficult task, allow me to recommend listening to the Phantom Thread soundtrack on a dark winter’s eve, which I am doing at this very moment). I particularly love his film Magnolia, and was struck by this exchange between two characters, the grizzled game show host Jimmy Gator, and his producer, Burt:
Jimmy
And the book says: “We may be through with the past, but the past ain’t through with us.”
Burt
“We met upon the level and we’re parting on the square”
Indeed, though 2020 is technically behind us, many of its effects linger on, no matter how much we wish they’d fade forever. The year is seared into our minds, and I use that verb intentionally. For those of us in Napa Valley, on top of the perils of the pandemic—not to mention an already formidable drought—we experienced the most devastating wildfire we’d seen to date. Many of us were forced to evacuate from the fire, threatening our homes, our winery, our vineyards, and our future. Striving to save all he’d created, Larry refused to leave at first, despite the fire surrounding our winery and home on three sides. Finally, the pleads from his family, especially his daughters, convinced him to escape, the flames licking at his heels.
Although we wish we could forget this year entirely, we find ourselves forced to face it once again. However, rather than only remembering damage and loss, I am choosing instead to shine a light on the lucky, hopeful, and heartening aspects of that fateful year. Most notably, all our structures and vineyards survived! The sole (temporary) exception being when Larry removed all our most important documents—birth certificates, winery deeds etc.—during the fires “for safekeeping,” only to promptly lose them for the following four months.
Furthermore, like many of our vintner brethren, we were forced to make some very tough decisions in 2020. Unlike those others, however, we make mostly Zinfandel, a grape that ripens significantly earlier than most other red varieties, often allowing us to safely harvest the lion’s share of a given vintage before fire season begins. Additionally, we work with vineyards in a wide variety of far-flung regions across the great Golden State, many of which were completely unaffected by the wildfires. Lastly, though there was much we lost, let’s not forget our gains: new parents were made, whether by babies, pets, or plants; a new president was elected; and several new wines joined the Turley family! You’ll see the first one in your offer, a “new” old-vine Zinfandel from the granite foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains: Deaver Ranch, whose vines date back to the 1920s.
Now to the last bit of that quote from Magnolia, which is a form of a Masonic maxim. “We meet upon the level” connotes approaching our interactions with honesty and transparency, and without prejudice, giving others due courtesy. “Parting on the square” implies that we conclude having treated one another with respect, and having done our best to satisfy each other’s needs.
To meet you on the level: 2020 was a challenging year. We had to make many sacrifices when it came to which vineyards we harvested, and cut even more when it came time to bottle. Unwilling to take even the most minute of chances, Tegan vetoed wines whose lab results returned clean if he felt their character had somehow been compromised. Thus, though you will no doubt notice wines missing from your lineup, you may rest assured that the ones you do see embody the high quality and distinctive terroirs of the vineyards they represent.
To part on the square: I am continuously impressed by the kind-heartedness of you, our members. Your compassionate notes throughout the years, packed with personal anecdotes and tributes, have never ceased to touch, inspire, and amaze. May we continue to approach one another with courtesy and respect in all our interactions, now and into the future; and may our wines continue to satisfy your needs. The wines, like all of us, may be fewer; and therefore, they are all the more precious. They, like you, have been through unimaginable hardship; they, like you, have endured. These gnarly old vines are tough as nails, but nevertheless produce wines that are smooth, elegant, approachable, and delicious. May we all take a page from their book.
Old Vines Young Love,
Christina Turley
Turley Wine Cellars
Tasting Notes
2020 vintage — spring release
A note on our winemaking:
All of our vineyards are either certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers or somewhere in the process, and we use all natural yeasts in the fermentations. The below single vineyard designate wines are aged in 80% used oak barriques, of which 80% are French (the rest American) and bottled after 15-18 months in barrel.
2020 Turley “Juvenile” Zinfandel, California
Though the vast majority of our wines are single vineyard designates, Juvenile is actually composed of a variety of young vines that have been replanted in several of our old vine sites.We tag the younger vines then pick them separately and make a distinct wine. Juvenile vines range in age from about 6-25 years, and we pull from a selection of our best vineyards across California.
Plenty of satiating spiced plum, blood orange, and stone fruits, with grippy tannins and well-balanced acidity. Eminently drinkable now owing to the classic Juvenile texture. Plus, with this vintage of Juvenile we introduced new corks that essentially eliminate TCA! What an absolutely gorgeous knockout of a wine for $20.
2020 Turley “Estate” Zinfandel, Napa Valley
This vineyard is special to all of us here at the winery; right in our backyard, it’s what we see every day at work (and from the family home!). We have slowly and steadily planted additional head-trained dry-farmed Zinfandel vines to complement the original planting from the mid-1990s, and the entire property is certified organic. Taking a page from our beloved old vine vineyards, we’ve also planted several of the varieties most commonly interplanted in old Zinfandel vineyards, including Carignane, Trousseau, and Cinsault.
Pretty blue and dark fruits, orange zest, anise, and a hint of Moroccan spiced lamb. Supple and lush, with creamy milk-chocolate texture on the mid-palate. Easy to drink straightaway.
2020 Turley “Pesenti Vineyard” Zinfandel, Paso Robles
This certified organic estate-owned vineyard was planted in the 1920s on primarily limestone soil. Though the vines are head-trained and dry-farmed, the soil plays the most important role in distinguishing this vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles. The wines have a brightness, with chalk and floral characteristic aromas unique to the site, and to Zinfandel in general.
Signature spice, white pepper, perfumed purple fruits and chalk, with a lush, juicy yet structured texture. Drinking well now.
2020 Turley “Buck Cobb Vineyard” Zinfandel, Amador County
Planted at 1500 feet on the volcanic, granitic hillside near our property in Amador, the Cobb Vineyard Zinfandel is an homage to “Buck” Cobb from whom we purchased the vineyard and the Karly property in Amador. We even added a little bi-plane symbol to the label to commemorate Buck’s time as an aerobatic pilot! The rocky conditions and more extreme weather (including snow) in this dry-farmed vineyard make for a hearty, robust Zinfandel.
Red fruits, black cherries, dried florals, ink and perfume, with characteristic Amador granite dust tannin. Approachable in its youth, though we nevertheless recommend decanting.
2020 Turley “Dusi Vineyard” Zinfandel, Paso Robles
The Dusi vineyard was planted by Dante Dusi in 1945 and it is farmed by his family to this day. The vines are head-trained and dry-farmed, planted in soil that is mostly alluvial with some very large rocks. Like our other vineyards in the area, Dusi is on the west side of Paso Robles, in the cool Templeton Gap sub-AVA.
The darker, more hedonistic cousin to the Pesenti Zinfandel, with plenty of fruits that run the full gamut from berry to stone and everything in between. Supple, juicy, and mouthwatering on the palate with a mineral zip. Drink now.
2020 Turley “Steacy Ranch” Zinfandel, Amador County
Steacy Ranch was one of the first vineyards planted on St. George rootstock in Lodi, which has since become the gold standard for Zinfandel in California. Hailing from 1907, the Zinfandel vines in this sandy-soiled vineyard are interspersed with Grenache, Carignane, and Mission varieties as well, all common bedfellows in these classic old California vineyards.
Classic Rhône notes of blue and purple fruits alongside lamb fat, spice, and dust. Plush on the palate and satisfyingly open and ready to drink.
2020 Turley “Kirschenmann Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi
The Kirschenmann is close to our hearts as our winemaker, Tegan Passalacqua, owns and farms this vineyard. The ungrafted vines were planted in 1915 in the silica-rich sandy soils of the east side of the Mokelumne River AVA. Thanks to the river’s cool waters and delta breezes, these head-trained, dry-farmed vines are constantly protected from the heat. In the grand tradition of old-vine field blends, the vineyard has small amounts of Mondeuse, Cinsault, and Carignane.
Wild strawberries warmed in the sun, anise, mint, spice, fennel, roast herb-crusted lamb, and a hint of raspberry liqueur. Lay it down for a few or decant to enjoy sooner!
2020 Turley “Estate” Petite Syrah, Napa Valley
Planted adjacent to the Estate Zinfandel, this Petite is also certified organic. The Wappo Indians used to roam throughout the region, and obsidian arrowheads are commonplace in the rocky volcanic soils. The wine is a classic Napa Valley Petite Syrah: dark and brooding on the nose, bright and vibrant on the palate.
Wild blackberries, violets, India ink and game; classic Petite Syrah. Dark and juicy on the palate with plenty of tannin. Give this wine time in order to really see it shine!
2020 Turley “Duarte” Zinfandel, Contra Costa County
This wine is an homage to Joe Duarte, a prominent grape grower in Contra Costa who first introduced Turley to the incredible vineyards of the area. The wine is comprised of fruit from the turn-of-the-century vineyards, several ungrafted, dating back to the 1890s. Thanks to the windswept sandy soils and impressive age of the vines, the wine has some of the softest, silkiest tannins we’ve ever seen in a Zinfandel.
Fascinating nose of salted caramel chocolate, red apple skin, plum and white stone fruits. Exemplary suave, supple tannins with welcoming fresh acidity. Delightful straight out of the gate.
2020 Turley “Deaver Ranch” Zinfandel, Amador County
Introducing the newest wine to the Turley family in 2020, the Deaver Ranch Zinfandel from Amador County. Hailing from several head-trained vineyards dating back to the 1920s, these vines are planted at around 1500’ in the granite and quartz-rich soils of the Shenandoah Valley AVA. Ken Deaver, who farms each of these sites, can trace his family’s history in the Foothills back to the mid-19th century. The family planted their first grapevines in 1854, selling their harvest primarily to fellow homesteaders and amateur winemakers. Now, over 150 years later, Turley is proud to participate in this long-standing family farming tradition.
New! Deaver Ranch hails from several head-trained vineyards dating back to the 1920s across the Shenandoah Valley AVA. Stunning pure red in color, with garrigue, spiced red fruits, and sun-warmed rock. A rich mouthfeel and traditional Amador fine-grained granitic tannins. Drinking well now with a quick decant.
2020 Turley “WHITNEY TENNESSEE” Zinfandel, ALEXANDER Valley
This small, estate-owned, pre-Prohibition vineyard in Sonoma County was purchased by the winery in 2009, and we’ve since converted all to organic farming. Planted on loam and various gravel soils, the Whitney Tennessee vineyard—named for one of Larry’s four daughters—is a mixed planting as well, with small amounts of Petite Syrah and Carignane vines sprinkled throughout.
Dark fruits, warm spices, gravel dust, and petrichor. Dynamic and shifting in texture, from tannin to juiciness on the mid-palate and finishing with fresh acidity and blue fruits. Drink now or lay down.
2020 Turley “Sadie Upton Vineyard” Zinfandel, Amador County
2020 is the final vintage of this wine for Turley. In 1922, smack-dab in the middle of Prohibition and while her husband was away working for the railroad, a then 21-year-old Sadie Upton decided she was going to plant a vineyard near their home at 1500 feet near Plymouth, CA. Now, 100 years later, the vines are still kicking in the gumption-riddled tradition of their creator. The wine was made exclusively by Karly for the past 30 years and we are beyond excited to be able to share Sadie’s moxie with you today.
2020 sadly marks the final vintage Sadie for Turley. Ripe candied red fruits, peppermint, dried flowers, graphite, and earth, alongside distinctive granitic tannins. Ready now if decanted.
2020 Turley “Bedrock Vineyard” Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley
Hailing from 1888 and owned by Joel Peterson (founder of Ravenswood) and his son Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co., the Bedrock Vineyard is truly an iconic site. Right in the heart of Sonoma Valley, these ancient vines are planted amidst volcanic rocks and Los Robles cobbly loam soil that has sloughed down from Monte Rosso. This is a layered, complex wine, owing perhaps to the small amounts of Petite Syrah and Alicante Bouschet that are also found in our organically-farmed block of Bedrock.
Organically farmed, head-trained vines dating back to 1888 in Sonoma. Deep blue fruits, blackberries, plum, graphite, and gravel dust; similar to the Fredericks in profile. Strong textural loamy tannins carry through to the finish; needs a bit of time, so lay it down for a year or give it a longer decant.
2020 Turley “Vineyard 101” Zinfandel, Alexander Valley
Located in Sonoma, this pre-Prohibition vineyard is estate-owned and certified organic. At only 2½ acres, it is the smallest site we make into a vineyard designate, which is a shame, since the wines are consistently a staff favorite. The wines are aromatic and light, with lots of fruit and great acidity. Vineyard 101 was the first old-vine vineyard Larry purchased, and it is the longest-running estate bottling we’ve ever made.
Wild strawberries, perfume, pennyroyal, black cherry, dark flowers, and satiating chalky tannins. Drinking well now and can age due to the poise and balance inherent in this stunning wine.